A Journey from “Meh” to Magic

Thanks to the wonders of Match.com, back in 2007, I crossed paths with a super-cute, half-Peruvian, half-Norwegian guy. Fast forward a year, and there I was with an invitation to Peru to meet his family. A romantic getaway with a dash of cultural immersion—what could be better, right?

Well, let’s just say my initial feelings for Lima were… complicated.

Lima: A Rocky First Date

When we first touched down, Lima wasn’t exactly winning me over. The city definitely lived up to its bad reputation—dusty, overcast, and those endless traffic jams! We were only staying for a few days before and after our Amazon adventure, and honestly, I was relieved it wasn’t longer.

Now, don’t get me wrong. There were definite highlights. Spending time with his warm and welcoming family? Loved it. And my mother-in-law’s home-cooked meals? Let’s just say I sampled more types of potatoes than I ever thought possible (Peru is the birthplace of the potato, after all). But Lima itself? Yeah, not love at first sight.

Our hotel was in Miraflores, which is one of the city’s premiere neighborhoods. But the hotel itself? Eek. Cheap mattresses, scratchy bedding, and the kind of orange curtains that made the room feel like it was stuck in a bad 70s time warp. Not exactly the romantic getaway I had in mind. Stepping outside didn’t help either—street vendors were constantly in your face, trying to exchange money, and there were mothers with children on their hips, begging for change. The former was frustrating and the latter was heartbreaking.

I couldn’t wait to leave.

A Princess in Lima: The Struggle is Real

Look, I admit it—I’m a bit of a travel princess. I’ve stayed in and enjoyed everything from hostels to luxury resorts, but I have *standards*. So, looking back, I realized that maybe leaving the planning to my Scandinavian-Peruvian boyfriend and his family wasn’t my brightest idea.

Their idea of a great hotel? Not quite the same as mine. But hey, I decided to distract myself by shopping—something I’m usually pretty great at. However, finding cool boutiques in Lima was like hunting for a needle in a haystack. Even today, Google seems to lump world-class shopping in with fast fashion chains (a nightmare for anyone with discerning taste and zero patience). Back then, all I managed to dig up were a few treasures at the Indian Market, the luxurious Kuna Alpaca stores, and Larcomar—an upscale mall that’s… fine, but let’s be real, it’s not exactly fascinating.

And then, there was the food.

Lima: A Foodie’s Paradise (But Not for Me)

Lima is renowned for its food scene—Central, Maido, Astrid y Gastón—people fly here just to eat! But guess what? I’m not a foodie. And I don’t eat fish. So, all the hype about ceviche and Michelin-starred restaurants? Totally lost on me.

However, I did fall in love with something totally unexpected: *kwicha* bars. These little quinoa, granola, and nut treats sold at the corner kiosks? I couldn’t get enough of them. Who needs fancy Michelin stars when you’ve got snack bars?

A Change of Heart (And Hotels)

This could’ve been the end of my Lima love story, but in 2010, I married that cute half-Peruvian guy. And for our honeymoon? We decided on Mancora, Peru’s famous beach town. Since you can’t fly anywhere in Peru without passing through Lima, we decided to give the city another shot.

Only this time, I took charge. I researched everything—hotels, shopping, and food that wasn’t ceviche. And let me tell you, Lima is home to some *fabulous* hotels. From the ultra-luxurious Belmond Miraflores Park and Hotel B to the charming Novotel—this time, I was determined to do it right.

We ended up staying at the Belmond Miraflores Park. It was our honeymoon, after all! Yes, it was expensive particularly by Peru standards—about $480 a night—but the location, perched along the Malecon with stunning sea views? Totally worth it. The breakfast buffet alone, with its spread of exotic fruits and sinful carbs, served in a rooftop restaurant with jaw-dropping views, made me fall hard for Lima.

And this time, no scratchy bedding or smelly curtains in sight.

Shopping Redemption

As for shopping, it was still tricky. But I ventured out to Jockey Plaza, a sprawling mall on the outskirts of Lima, and finally found some hidden gems. I scored some great Peruvian fashion from chains like Mentha & Chocolate, and my shopping faith was restored.

But my true Lima shopping moment came when I stumbled upon Tienda La Quinta—cue the angels singing–a magical little outlet in Miraflores that sold piles upon piles of designer tees, sweatshirts, and dresses for pennies on the dollar. 

Brands like Vince, Theory, and Roberta Roller Rabbit at insane discounts. I left with a duffel bag full of clothes for less than the price of three shirts back home. 

A Twist of Fate: Buying a Home in Peru

After our wonderful honeymoon, life took over. We had a baby, and my husband’s family temporarily relocated to the Dominican Republic, so we didn’t return to Lima for a while. But in 2015, family circumstances changed, and we decided to buy a second home in Peru. The idea? His family would live there year-round, and we could visit on vacations.

Now, as the resident researcher in the family, I dove into real estate listings. I contacted a Peruvian friend of my sister’s who works in the luxury travel business, asking where she would buy a vacation home in Peru. Her first suggestion? Playas del Norte, near Mancora, where we had honeymooned. Perfect!

As luck would have it, my husband was already planning a trip to Peru with his daughter (my stepdaughter) to visit his father, her grandfather. They hadn’t met before, so it was a big moment for their family. But with our son only 3 years old at the time and an absolute busy bee, I opted to stay home in LA rather than chase him around while fighting with jetlag.

While they were away, I scoured Peruvian real estate listings online. Let me tell you—looking at homes through grainy, badly lit photos that wouldn’t pass for even a Craigslist ad in the US was a bit of a struggle. Most of the houses looked eerily similar to that awful hotel we stayed in years before. I wasn’t impressed.

Then, one day, I stumbled upon a listing for a house about 40 miles north of Mancora in a tiny fishing village called Acapulco. The listing? Let’s just say the house didn’t have actual windows–it was more like a summer camp cabin– but it did come with an adorable cat, plus all the tables, chairs, and silverware because here was the kicker. The property included a functioning restaurant as part of the deal. 

Now, this was something.

It was perfect for my mother-in-law, who had always dreamed of owning her own restaurant. The timing wasn’t ideal, though. My husband was coming home in three days, so there wasn’t enough time for him to check out the house. But we decided I would fly down to Peru after he returned, and I’d visit the house with his father.

My Solo Real Estate Adventure in Lima

In early January 2016, I packed my bags and headed off to Peru. After a late-night arrival in Lima, I met my father-in-law, who whisked me off to a charming hotel in San Isidro, which I had or course selected on my own. 

The experience of navigating the Peruvian real estate market was a wild ride—one that deserves its own post—but let’s just say it involved jumping through bureaucratic hoops I never knew existed. I ended up staying in Lima for two weeks. 

At first, I was too nervous to even walk six blocks from my hotel to the real estate lawyer’s office. But by the end of my stay? I felt like a true Lima local. I had a favorite hair salon, nail place, Japanese restaurant, and supermarket. I started to see the city in a whole new light.

A Happily Ever After with Lima

What started as a lukewarm affair has blossomed into a full-blown romance. Today, I can’t get enough of Lima’s vibrant culture, hidden gems, and yes, even its sometimes maddening quirks. With each visit, I’ve discovered more to love—whether it’s a tucked-away boutique, a charming café, or a slice of pizza that rivals the best in Italy.

So, here’s my advice: if you’re planning a trip to Peru, don’t just treat Lima as a layover city. Dig a little deeper, plan a little smarter, and you might just find yourself falling for this underappreciated gem of a city—just like I did.